A New Duratec Build Manual

This is fantastic news, at last a new build manual for Duratec engined car from Caterham.

You can download it from https://cms.caterhamcars.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/Assembly_Guide_DURATEC_Edition_2.0_V1.pdf

Well, that was what I initially thought, until I started looking a bit closer.

I don’t expect Caterham’s build manual to cover all the tricks and tips car builders pick up over the years, working on old cars where bits don’t just fall into place. I do however expect Caterham to give builders the correct sequence to build their cars. I also expect them to cover the whole build and to not leave bits out.

Therefore I decided to annotate the Duratec build manual, just as I did when I started this build (all be it with a manual for a different car).

Manual Build Step	Observation / Recommendation
Let’s Get Ready	The single front axle stand is not the only option, but the chassis tube used for a four axle stand setup isn’t shown in the diagram. This won’t be a problem, because your delivery driver will help you get this set up.
Start With The Suspension Wishbones	I prefer to get the headlight brackets adjusted and the “AD” bolt passing through the headlight bracket and chassis, before fitting the upper wishbone, to reduce frustration later.   Front Lower Wishbone Front Upper Wishbone
Now For The Steering Rack	12 turns resulted in significant toe out; 14 turns for my build would have been a more accurate estimation. If you are building a dry sump car, consider drilling the hole for the horns before you fit the steering rack. Steering Rack
And Then The Dampers	Front Dampers
It’s Time For the Wingstays	The special cut-down nut is still shown for wide track cars, but this has been replaced with a top-hat spacer inserted into the spherical bearing and a standard 1/2 nut. Drilling the wingstay is easier when you can apply some pressure. It can be left until the front wings are fitted. Uprights
Let There Be Light	I am glad they show the grommet in the headlight bracket, but it doesn’t show the grommet that’s needed in the chassis (for IVA), where the wiring for the headlight bracket runs into the chassis.   In my kit, the CA self-tapping screws were replaced with screws and nyloc nuts. The manual also doesn’t show how to route the wiring for the headlight. Headlights Headlight connections
Last Part Of The Front Suspension: Connecting The Two Sides Together	Front Anti Roll Bar
Fitting the Brake Hoses	Spend time finding the correct washer and adapter to go into the caliper – it’s a common place for leaks if the wrong washer is used. Front Caliper Brake Hose
Let’s Make Some Noise	This manual shows two mounting options based on model number. However, the truth is that this is based on the sump specification: Dry or Wet Sump.  The rest of the manual is differentiated this way, but here it assumes you are not building a dry sump 360R (which is an option). Horns
Wet Sump Fitting The Radiator	The S3 and the SV are very different in this area. The S3 has drop brackets on the top mounting point.  The SV has aluminium brackets between the chassis and the radiator. Neither are shown. I strongly recomend you put off putting the delicate and expensive radiator onto the car before you have installed the engine.  Even the diagram shows the engine as being installed.  Radiator
Dry Sump Fitting The Radiator	The S3 and the SV are very different in this area.  The S3 has drop brackets on the top mounting point.  The SV has aluminium brackets between the chassis and the radiator. Neither are shown. I strongly recomend you put off putting the delicate and expensive radiator onto the car before you have installed the engine.  Even the diagram shows the engine as being installed.  Radiator
Things Are Heating Up	There is no instruction on how to install the blanking panel if the heater isn’t optioned.
Wet / Dry Sump Remove Engine Parts	Engine Install Preparation
Wet / Dry Sump Attach Gearbox To Bellhousing	Gearbox to Engine
Wet / Dry Sump And Then Gearbox To Engine	Gearbox to Engine
Filling The Engine and Gearbox With Oil	This must be a mistake. Currently, the only gearbox available is the 5-speed that is already pre-filled.   It is possible to fill a wet sump engine, but pouring six litres of oil into the dry sump engine at this stage is going to result in a big mess. 😱 Alternatively, you can fill your engine before you start it.
Wet / Dry Sump At Last The Engine Is Going In	You are going to have to play “guess the fixings” for the engine mounting bolts.  Think of it as hide and seek; you’re going to get good at this before you finish. Engine Install
Wet/ Dry Sump And The Gearbox Is Fixed In Place	The recommendation at this stage is to connect the wiring to the engine, but this is before the alternator and starter motor are refitted. Best leave that until the next step.
Wet / Dry Sump Refit Altenator, Belt & Starter Motor	Now it’s time to consider making the electrical connections to the engine. It would be nice to show the connections that need to be made. The starter wiring depends on the battery isolator option, and there are loads of unused wires. Starter Motor and Alternator Engine Electrical Connections (Part 1)
Wet Sump Lower Radiator Hose	Fitting the radiator before this task is the ideal order. Engine Plumbing (Part 1)
Wet Sump Upper Radiator Hose	This covers the oil cooler / expansion tank hose, which is actually shown in the diagram. Leave this until you have fitted the oil cooler / expansion tank hoses, but before you refit the plenum. Engine Plumbing (Part 1)
Wet Sump Expandion Bottle
Wet Sump Hoses	Not the best description, maybe “Wet Sump Oil Cooler and Expansion Tank Hoses” covers is better.
Dry Sump Fixing The Tank	Is it possible to fit the exhaust primaries with the dry sump tank is place? Fit the exhaust primaries before fitting the dry sump tank. Consider drilling the catch tank mounting brackets before fitting the dry sump tank. It’s more difficult later.  Exhaust Primaries Dry Sump Tank Breather / Catch Tank
Dry Sump Fitting The Expansion Bottle	Expansion Tank
Dry Sump Lower Radiator Hose	Fitting the Radiator before this task is the ideal order Engine Plumbing (Part 1)
Dry Sump Upper Radiator Hose	This covers the oil expansion tank hose and some of the oil lines for the dry sump. Which is actually shown in the diagram. Leave this until you have fitted the oil expansion tank hoses and oil lines for the dry sump, but before you refit the plenum. Engine Plumbing (Part 1)
Dry Sump Hoses	Not the best description, maybe “Dry Sump Expansion Tank Hoses” covers is better.
Dry Sump Catch Tank	Drilling for the catch tank bracket is more difficult, now the dry sump and upper radiator hose have been fitted. Consider doing this before installing the dry sump tank. Wet sump builders are left guessing at this step. Breather / Catch Tank
Dry Sump Oil Pipe – 1 Of 3	This is shown with only the lower radiator hose fitted. I suspect, this is the correct order in the diagram (not as listed in the manual). Engine Dry Sump Pipes (Part 1)
Dry Sump Oil Pipe – 2 Of 3	This is shown with only the lower radiator hose fitted. I suspect, this is the correct order in the diagram (not as listed in the manual). Engine Start Preparation
Dry Sump Oil Pipe – 3 Of 3	This is shown with only the lower radiator hose fitted.  I suspect, this is the correct order in the diagram (not as listed in the manual). Dry Sump Tank
Wet / Dry Sump – A Bit Of Sub-Assembly (Some Hoses Need Modifying)	Some measurements would be nice.  Seems the approach is to “cut first, measure later” (with a £45 hose). 😱 You are advised to cut the hose before you have measured the length needed – not the normal approach.  The position of the temperature gauge sensor is limited by the wiring length, so be careful here.  Engine Plumbing (Part 1)
Wet / Dry Sump Sub -Assembly – Temperature Sensor	No mention of PTFE (as per dry sump tank) on the sensor, instead LocTite, which seems strange. Engine Plumbing (Part 1)
Wet / Dry Sump Submarine	No mention of wiring connections to the temperature gauge sensor or alternative route if heater not specified. Engine Plumbing (Part 1)
Wet Sump Last Bit Of Plumbing	It may be the last bit of plumbing in the manual, but the catch tank is missing (although shown in the diagram).
Dry Sump Last Bit Of Plumbing
Wet / Dry Sump Plenum	No mention of wet sump crank case breather hose refit. A torque setting would be nice. Plenum Refit
Wet / Dry Sump Air Box Hose	And as if by magic the Air Box appears. Airbox
Connect The Fuel Line	Hang on, someone swapped the engine to a Sigma engine for the next few steps! Engine Plumbing (Part 1)
Protecting & Attaching The Clutch Hose	A torque setting for the Banjo bolt would be nice. Clutch Hose
Connecting The Battery (Positive / Red First)
It Lives!	But disconnect it again, because you haven’t connected the lights, rear lights, number plate light, gearbox reverse switch, handbrake warning light, speed sensor etc.
One Last Bit of Plumbing…	Don’t panic, Duratec builders, they didn’t lie when they said earlier “Last Bit Of Plumbing” – this is a Sigma step.
…To Connect The Heater	Still a Sigma Step, so ignore.
Wet / Dry Sump Throttle Cable	Hooray! The Duratec engine is back! Hold off on the silicon until you are happy with the pedal position, and you have full throttle setup correctly. Throttle Cable
Fill With Coolant
Giving It Some Direction	Is it possible to fit the exhaust primaries with the steering column is place? If you haven’t already done so, fit the exhaust primaries before the steering column. Read this post about the top bush: Steering Column
This is Exhausting	Yer, is especially exhausting if you have to remove the dry sump tank and steering column. There used to be an order published, to help work out how to get the primaries through the side skin hole without damage. Exhaust Primaries
Fitting The Handbrake	The washer order is wrong for the clevis. It’s worth adjusting the micro switch, so it operates before the first click at this stage, before it is covered by the transmission tunnel cover. Also, consider fitting the gear stick and reverse light switch wiring. Handbrake and Gear lever
Slide In The Propshaft	Prop shaft
Heavy Stuff: Fitting The Diff	It’s worth loosening the fill plug before you fit the differential. Differential
Fill The Differential With Oil	I would wait, until the driveshafts have been fitted. Fill the Diff
Preparing The DeDion Tube	De Dion tube
And Fitting It In Place	De Dion tube
Attaching The Rear Dampers	Fit the Roll Bar or Cage before this step. I don’t understand, why the roll bar fit isn’t just moved in the document before this step. At least there is a side note in the manual. Rear Shock Absorbers
Then The Radius Arms	You may have to drill out / enlarge the inner skin if you have a SV R spec car. Radius Arms
And Now The (Carefully Spaced) A-Frame	A-frame
If You Have The Optional Rear Anti-Roll Bar, It Goes On Like This	Rear Anti Roll Bar
Insert The Driveshafts	Driveshafts
Fitting The Rear Hub	De Dion Ears Rear Brake Pads
And Speed Sensor (One Side Only)	Adjustment is based on the old sensor, as is the diagram. It may be a good idea to show how to test the sensor using the LED. Speed Sensor Speed Sensor Testing
Just Wing It	The manual should be a bit more explicit about what is meant by “Key the wing and wingstay”. Consider fitting the IVA trim before fitting the wing to the wingstay. Front Wing preparation Front Wing fitting
Tape In Place For 24 Hours
Some Extra Adhesive Underneath
Just Wing It (again)
Finish With Trim	It’s so much easier to fit the IVA trim before sticking the wing to the wingstay.
Fitting The Rear Wings	It is much easier fitting the wing protectors before fitting the rear wings. Rear Wings
And The Wing Protectors	Drilling so close to the body makes removing the wings a sensible alternative.
Fitting The Lights	The repeater doesn’t show the grommet in the wingstay, or the use of washer hose to protect the wire as it enters the body, nor the connection to the loom. The rear number plate light diagram is the old style, not the current LED unit. Repeaters Rear light Number plate light
Fuse Box Cover & Knee Trim Pads	Fitting the 12v socket to the fuse box cover isn’t shown, nor what to do with the redundant illumination wire. Fuse cover Knee Panels Inner panels
Fit The Tunnel Capet	Tunnel side carpet
And The Boot Carpet	Maybe showing the S pack carpet would help builders. Boot Carpet
This Is A Cover Up	Washer Bottle (Part 2) and Fuel Filler Cover
Now Fit The Tunnel Top	Although we haven’t fitted the Gearstick or the Reverse light switch… Tunnel cover and gear knob
Belt Up
Fitting The Four-Point Harness	I believe the back holes for the lower belts make Tillet seats impossible to fit. Seat belts (lower or lap belts) Seat belts (Upper) and Boot Cover
Fitting The Six-Point Harness	Spacer is shown, but this depends on the lower floor specification. I believe the back holes for the lower belts make Tillet seats impossible to fit.
Fitting Cloth Or Learher Seats
Or Fitting the Race Seats	It’s a shame the manual does not cover the most popular seat – the 620R seat – with the captive nut runners. What about the heated seat wiring? I recommend checking the runner works if you have lowered floors, because the seat will bind. Driver seat Passenger Seat
Fitting The Roll Over Bar	This should be done earlier, just before the rear shocks are fitted. Rollbar
Even More Exhausting	No mention of securing the lambda sensor wiring to the floor / footwell. Exhaust
The Nose Cone Badge	No mention of fitting the bonnet foam. Nosecone trimming Bonnet fit Decals and Nose Badge
Fitting The Wipers	No mention of fitting the washer bottle in the boot. The wipers are shown the wrong way round. So far, all illustrations are for a RHD car, this is the LHD setup for wipers. Wiper arms and blades
And Finally, At Last, The Wing Mirrors	Mirrors
Wiring the Starter Motor	No mention the wiring is different for Battery Isolator cars (and we already did this after the engine install before the starter was even fitted).