I refitted the Starter Motor first. You can see just how close the Starter Motor is to the heat shield on the left hand side foot well, so it was a good suggestion to remove it for the engine install. Refitting is a simple task, assuming you followed my recommendation and removed the plenum, and didn’t fit the top hose. The two cap head bolts are torqued to 35Nm, working from underneath for the lower bolt and above for the upper bolt. 

I have had my struggles with fitting the alternator before, and in truth wasn’t looking forward to this. During the process ensure the grey crank shaft sensor wire doesn’t get damaged.  I start with installing the lower aluminium bracket, and the bolt into the block, keeping it finger tight.  Then working from the front install the alternator and the top mounting bolt, again kept finger tight. Next, install the bottom bolt into the alternator (working from underneath). This time  make sure the bolt is snug, so the alternator is in the correct position, but don’t fully tighten it.  Next, snug the top alternator bolt, to make sure the alternator doesn’t move. I have never been able to tighten the lower bracket to the engine block with the tool selection I have, so the next few steps may seem strange. I removed the lower alternator mounting bolt; the alternator should not move, because it’s held by the snug top bolt. Now you can tighten the aluminium lower bracket to the block, the alternator keeps it in the correct location. 

The obvious next thing would be to fit the lower alternator bolt, but this didn’t fit, because the mounting hole has moved a little, so I recommend you loosen the top alternator bolt. This allows you to start the lower alternator bolt, and this time it can be fully tightened. Then fully tighten the top alternator bolt. It’s a long-winded process, but this sequence does work well.

Finally, I re-attached the alternator wiring, making sure the rubber cover was refitted, and then I fitted one of the starter motor cables, leaving the main battery cable loose, because I haven’t attached the main battery cables yet. A bit of wire-tidying completed the process. I decided to hide the unused wires in a piece of heat shrink tubing, to make the install as neat as possible. I used 13mm heat shrink tubing to cover the connectors. 

Unused engine loom wires

I feel it’s worth spending the time making sure all the tie-wraps you use (and the ones you can access that have been installed by Caterham) are neat and more importantly not left with a sharp edge where the side cutters used to trim the tie wrap did not cut straight. There is nothing worse than when a tie wrap cuts your hands, just because someone didn’t do a neat job.  

Starter wiring without isolator

I have decided to add this image from my 360R build: it shows the wiring to the starter motor if you don’t have a battery isolator switch. You need to add the two brown wires in addition to the battery and alternator wire to the main terminal. The extra wires mean you won’t be able to fit the split washer. This I checked with Caterham at the time.

Tools Used

  • Side cutters
  • Edge cutters
  • 6mm Allen key
  • 6mm hex 1/4″ socket
  • 1/4″ Extension (short and medium)
  • 1/4″ Ratchet
  • 8mm hex 1/4″ socket
  • 1/4″ to 3/8″ Adapter
  • 3/8″ Torque wrench
  • 3/8″ Extension
  • 10mm Combination Spanner
  • 6mm hex bit
  • Ratchet Ring Spanner for 6mm hex bit
  • Heat Gun