When I look at this build step in the new manual, it seems to me like the new manual writer was in a bit of a hurry to finish that day. Personally I am trying to makes these posts mirror the build steps in the manual, but in this instance I am going to separate one aspect, the rear brake pads, and I will add steps for the handbrake attachment. Incidentally the handbrake attachment isn’t shown in the new manual, and it isn’t as straight forwards as you might think.

I started with finding the fixings, a simple task this time. The shortest bolts, washers and spring washers are then used to locate the De Dion ear onto the tube. I know the new manual calls for silicon to seal the ear to the tube and in principle this is a good idea if you are going to use your car in all weathers. Sealing the ear to the tube will prevent water from entering the tube and rusting it from inside out. However, I decided to use the old manual’s method of not sealing, because it makes adjusting of rear camber & toe easier (using special shims) and I won’t be using my car over winter anyway. That said, I did spray plenty of ACF50 anti rust oil into the tube before assembly.

Hub fitted

Next up, I fitted the bearing hub onto the driveshaft – a gentle tap was needed with the dead blow hammer – and secured it with the remaining four bolts. The longest bolts go through the middle, through the hub ear and tube. The bracket for the anti roll bar drop links (and speed sensor) negated the need for washers, but the middle bolts need washers. At this stage I torqued all the bolts following a zig zag pattern to 47Nm.

Next the discs, hub nuts and washers, a task I have done a few times before. The plan is at this stage is only to tighten the hub nut, not to attempt the 270Nm torque figure. I will do that when I have working brakes / handbrake and the chassis is on the ground.

I did apply some BMW spline grease to the driveshaft spline before the disc was slid onto the drive shaft, but I didn’t take a photo of this step.

To tighten the hub nut out came my 41mm socket. Since I am only going to take up the slack at this stage, putting the car in gear was enough to permit tightening. If you are building a model without an LSD, you may have to fit a wheel and hold that, the socket will pass through the hole in the centre of the wheel. The left-hand-side is an anti-clockwise thread.

Then the shock: the right-hand-side nut is no longer 41mm, but 42mm, a socket I don’t own. You can see the hub nuts in their original Ford packaging in my photos, so this is not a Caterham design change, but a Ford part design change (without part number change). Looking closely at the Ford labels you can see the 42mm nut label looks newer, so maybe at some stage both nuts will be 42mm. Please check this before you purchase a socket for this job.

If you would prefer the same size nut on each side, then I can recommend ordering a replacement form Redline Components (https://www.redlinecomponents.co.uk), they supplied a 41mm replacement for the right-hand-side, but the nut style isn’t the same as the Ford original parts, so decided stick with the originals.

Onto the rear brake caliper. As I said at the beginning of the post I didn’t intend to complete this here, because I feel the pads and handbrake need their own post.

The rear brake calipers are no longer supplied fitted with slide pins. I know I was going to have to fit them, which is very simple, but also know they should be greased. I am sure I have the correct grease somewhere, but internet searches only uncovered much debate on the subject, therefore I choose to order purpose design caliper pin grease from BiggRed (http://www.biggred.co.uk). BiggRed is a caliper reconditioning specialist, but supplies caliper components. I didn’t know how much I would need, so ordered two sachets, in reality even being generous I only needed one.

Before fitting the rear caliper the final thing I checked was that the caliper was fully wound back with a caliper wind back tool (which it was). Before the handbrake is pulled (or even fitted) it is important to get the self-adjustment system working, by operating the caliper with the foot brake, i.e. with brake fluid.

Fitting the carrier to the De Dion ear is just two bolts, torqued to 47Nm

My final task was to fit the drop links for the anti roll bar. I prepared the drops links by removing the supplied plain nut from the ball at each end, and turned one end around so the balls point in opposite directions. Again, I needed a slim spanner, this time a 12mm. One thing to note is the old manual shows a spacer / stand off fitted to the bracket. This was already replaced in my 360R build with the setup in the photo.

The rear anti roll bar is adjustable, but for now I am keeping it a the new manual “stock” setting.

Tools Used

  • 17mm combination spanner
  • 13mm combination spanner
  • 12mm thin open ended spanner
  • 17mm 3/8” drive socket
  • 13mm 3/8” drive socket
  • 3/8” drive ratchet
  • 3/8” drive torque wrench
  • 41mm 1/2” drive socket
  • 42mm 3/4” drive socket
  • 3/4” to 1/2” drive adapter
  • 1/2” drive ratchet
  • Dead blow hammer
  • Caliper wind back tool