This is fantastic news, at last a new build manual for Duratec engined car from Caterham.

You can download it from https://cms.caterhamcars.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/Assembly_Guide_DURATEC_Edition_2.0_V1.pdf

Well, that was what I initially thought, until I started looking a bit closer.

I don’t expect Caterham’s build manual to cover all the tricks and tips car builders pick up over the years, working on old cars where bits don’t just fall into place. I do however expect Caterham to give builders the correct sequence to build their cars. I also expect them to cover the whole build and to not leave bits out.

Therefore I decided to annotate the Duratec build manual, just as I did when I started this build (all be it with a manual for a different car).

Manual Build StepObservation / Recommendation
Let’s Get Ready
The single front axle stand is not the only option, but the chassis tube used for a four axle stand setup isn’t shown in the diagram. This won’t be a problem, because your delivery driver will help you get this set up. 
Start With The Suspension Wishbones I prefer to get the headlight brackets adjusted and the “AD” bolt passing through the headlight bracket and chassis, before fitting the upper wishbone, to reduce frustration later.  
Front Lower Wishbone
Front Upper Wishbone
Now For The Steering Rack12 turns resulted in significant toe out; 14 turns for my build would have been a more accurate estimation.

If you are building a dry sump car, consider drilling the hole for the horns before you fit the steering rack.
Steering Rack
And Then The DampersFront Dampers
It’s Time For the WingstaysThe special cut-down nut is still shown for wide track cars, but this has been replaced with a top-hat spacer inserted into the spherical bearing and a standard 1/2 nut.
Drilling the wingstay is easier when you can apply some pressure. It can be left until the front wings are fitted.
Uprights
Let There Be LightI am glad they show the grommet in the headlight bracket, but it doesn’t show the grommet that’s needed in the chassis (for IVA), where the wiring for the headlight bracket runs into the chassis.  

In my kit, the CA self-tapping screws were replaced with screws and nyloc nuts.

The manual also doesn’t show how to route the wiring for the headlight.
Headlights
Headlight connections
Last Part Of The Front Suspension: Connecting The Two Sides TogetherFront Anti Roll Bar
Fitting the Brake HosesSpend time finding the correct washer and adapter to go into the caliper – it’s a common place for leaks if the wrong washer is used.
Front Caliper Brake Hose
Let’s Make Some NoiseThis manual shows two mounting options based on model number. However, the truth is that this is based on the sump specification: Dry or Wet Sump.  The rest of the manual is differentiated this way, but here it assumes you are not building a dry sump 360R (which is an option).
Horns
Wet Sump Fitting The RadiatorThe S3 and the SV are very different in this area. The S3 has drop brackets on the top mounting point.  The SV has aluminium brackets between the chassis and the radiator. Neither are shown.

I strongly recomend you put off putting the delicate and expensive radiator onto the car before you have installed the engine.  Even the diagram shows the engine as being installed. 
Radiator

Dry Sump Fitting The Radiator 
The S3 and the SV are very different in this area.  The S3 has drop brackets on the top mounting point.  The SV has aluminium brackets between the chassis and the radiator. Neither are shown.

I strongly recomend you put off putting the delicate and expensive radiator onto the car before you have installed the engine.  Even the diagram shows the engine as being installed. 
Radiator
Things Are Heating UpThere is no instruction on how to install the blanking panel if the heater isn’t optioned.
Wet / Dry Sump Remove Engine PartsEngine Install Preparation
Wet / Dry Sump Attach Gearbox To BellhousingGearbox to Engine
Wet / Dry Sump And Then Gearbox To EngineGearbox to Engine
Filling The Engine and Gearbox With Oil This must be a mistake. Currently, the only gearbox available is the 5-speed that is already pre-filled.  
It is possible to fill a wet sump engine, but pouring six litres of oil into the dry sump engine at this stage is going to result in a big mess. 😱
Alternatively, you can fill your engine before you start it.
Wet / Dry Sump At Last The Engine Is Going InYou are going to have to play “guess the fixings” for the engine mounting bolts.  Think of it as hide and seek; you’re going to get good at this before you finish.
Engine Install
Wet/ Dry Sump And The Gearbox Is Fixed In PlaceThe recommendation at this stage is to connect the wiring to the engine, but this is before the alternator and starter motor are refitted. Best leave that until the next step.
Wet / Dry Sump Refit Altenator, Belt & Starter MotorNow it’s time to consider making the electrical connections to the engine. It would be nice to show the connections that need to be made. The starter wiring depends on the battery isolator option, and there are loads of unused wires.
Starter Motor and Alternator
Engine Electrical Connections (Part 1)
Wet Sump Lower Radiator HoseFitting the radiator before this task is the ideal order.
Engine Plumbing (Part 1)
Wet Sump Upper Radiator HoseThis covers the oil cooler / expansion tank hose, which is actually shown in the diagram. Leave this until you have fitted the oil cooler / expansion tank hoses, but before you refit the plenum.
Engine Plumbing (Part 1)
Wet Sump Expandion Bottle
Wet Sump HosesNot the best description, maybe “Wet Sump Oil Cooler and Expansion Tank Hoses” covers is better.
Dry Sump Fixing The TankIs it possible to fit the exhaust primaries with the dry sump tank is place?
Fit the exhaust primaries before fitting the dry sump tank.
Consider drilling the catch tank mounting brackets before fitting the dry sump tank. It’s more difficult later. 
Exhaust Primaries
Dry Sump Tank
Breather / Catch Tank
Dry Sump Fitting The Expansion BottleExpansion Tank
Dry Sump Lower Radiator HoseFitting the Radiator before this task is the ideal order
Engine Plumbing (Part 1)
Dry Sump Upper Radiator HoseThis covers the oil expansion tank hose and some of the oil lines for the dry sump. Which is actually shown in the diagram.
Leave this until you have fitted the oil expansion tank hoses and oil lines for the dry sump, but before you refit the plenum.
Engine Plumbing (Part 1)
Dry Sump HosesNot the best description, maybe “Dry Sump Expansion Tank Hoses” covers is better.
Dry Sump Catch TankDrilling for the catch tank bracket is more difficult, now the dry sump and upper radiator hose have been fitted. Consider doing this before installing the dry sump tank.
Wet sump builders are left guessing at this step.
Breather / Catch Tank
Dry Sump Oil Pipe – 1 Of 3This is shown with only the lower radiator hose fitted. I suspect, this is the correct order in the diagram (not as listed in the manual).
Engine Dry Sump Pipes (Part 1)
Dry Sump Oil Pipe – 2 Of 3This is shown with only the lower radiator hose fitted. I suspect, this is the correct order in the diagram (not as listed in the manual).
Engine Start Preparation
Dry Sump Oil Pipe – 3 Of 3This is shown with only the lower radiator hose fitted.  I suspect, this is the correct order in the diagram (not as listed in the manual).
Dry Sump Tank
Wet / Dry Sump – A Bit Of Sub-Assembly (Some Hoses Need Modifying)Some measurements would be nice.  Seems the approach is to “cut first, measure later” (with a £45 hose). 😱
You are advised to cut the hose before you have measured the length needed – not the normal approach. 
The position of the temperature gauge sensor is limited by the wiring length, so be careful here. 
Engine Plumbing (Part 1)
Wet / Dry Sump Sub -Assembly – Temperature SensorNo mention of PTFE (as per dry sump tank) on the sensor, instead LocTite, which seems strange.
Engine Plumbing (Part 1)
Wet / Dry Sump SubmarineNo mention of wiring connections to the temperature gauge sensor or alternative route if heater not specified.
Engine Plumbing (Part 1)
Wet Sump Last Bit Of PlumbingIt may be the last bit of plumbing in the manual, but the catch tank is missing (although shown in the diagram).
Dry Sump Last Bit Of Plumbing
Wet / Dry Sump PlenumNo mention of wet sump crank case breather hose refit. A torque setting would be nice.
Plenum Refit
Wet / Dry Sump Air Box HoseAnd as if by magic the Air Box appears.
Airbox
Connect The Fuel LineHang on, someone swapped the engine to a Sigma engine for the next few steps!
Engine Plumbing (Part 1)
Protecting & Attaching The Clutch HoseA torque setting for the Banjo bolt would be nice.
Clutch Hose
Connecting The Battery (Positive / Red First)
It Lives!But disconnect it again, because you haven’t connected the lights, rear lights, number plate light, gearbox reverse switch, handbrake warning light, speed sensor etc.
One Last Bit of Plumbing…Don’t panic, Duratec builders, they didn’t lie when they said earlier “Last Bit Of Plumbing” – this is a Sigma step.
…To Connect The HeaterStill a Sigma Step, so ignore.
Wet / Dry Sump Throttle CableHooray! The Duratec engine is back!
Hold off on the silicon until you are happy with the pedal position, and you have full throttle setup correctly.
Throttle Cable
Fill With Coolant
Giving It Some DirectionIs it possible to fit the exhaust primaries with the steering column is place?
If you haven’t already done so, fit the exhaust primaries before the steering column. Read this post about the top bush:
Steering Column
This is ExhaustingYer, is especially exhausting if you have to remove the dry sump tank and steering column.
There used to be an order published, to help work out how to get the primaries through the side skin hole without damage.
Exhaust Primaries
Fitting The HandbrakeThe washer order is wrong for the clevis.
It’s worth adjusting the micro switch, so it operates before the first click at this stage, before it is covered by the transmission tunnel cover.
Also, consider fitting the gear stick and reverse light switch wiring.
Handbrake and Gear lever
Slide In The PropshaftProp shaft
Heavy Stuff: Fitting The DiffIt’s worth loosening the fill plug before you fit the differential.
Differential
Fill The Differential With OilI would wait, until the driveshafts have been fitted.
Fill the Diff
Preparing The DeDion TubeDe Dion tube
And Fitting It In PlaceDe Dion tube
Attaching The Rear DampersFit the Roll Bar or Cage before this step.
I don’t understand, why the roll bar fit isn’t just moved in the document before this step. At least there is a side note in the manual.
Rear Shock Absorbers
Then The Radius ArmsYou may have to drill out / enlarge the inner skin if you have a SV R spec car.
Radius Arms
And Now The (Carefully Spaced) A-FrameA-frame
If You Have The Optional Rear Anti-Roll Bar, It Goes On Like ThisRear Anti Roll Bar
Insert The DriveshaftsDriveshafts
Fitting The Rear HubDe Dion Ears
Rear Brake Pads
And Speed Sensor (One Side Only)Adjustment is based on the old sensor, as is the diagram.
It may be a good idea to show how to test the sensor using the LED.
Speed Sensor
Speed Sensor Testing
Just Wing ItThe manual should be a bit more explicit about what is meant by “Key the wing and wingstay”. Consider fitting the IVA trim before fitting the wing to the wingstay.
Front Wing preparation
Front Wing fitting
Tape In Place For 24 Hours
Some Extra Adhesive Underneath
Just Wing It (again)
Finish With TrimIt’s so much easier to fit the IVA trim before sticking the wing to the wingstay.
Fitting The Rear WingsIt is much easier fitting the wing protectors before fitting the rear wings.
Rear Wings
And The Wing ProtectorsDrilling so close to the body makes removing the wings a sensible alternative.
Fitting The LightsThe repeater doesn’t show the grommet in the wingstay, or the use of washer hose to protect the wire as it enters the body, nor the connection to the loom.
The rear number plate light diagram is the old style, not the current LED unit.
Repeaters
Rear light
Number plate light
Fuse Box Cover & Knee Trim PadsFitting the 12v socket to the fuse box cover isn’t shown, nor what to do with the redundant illumination wire.
Fuse cover
Knee Panels
Inner panels
Fit The Tunnel CapetTunnel side carpet
And The Boot CarpetMaybe showing the S pack carpet would help builders.
Boot Carpet
This Is A Cover UpWasher Bottle (Part 2) and Fuel Filler Cover
Now Fit The Tunnel TopAlthough we haven’t fitted the Gearstick or the Reverse light switch…
Tunnel cover and gear knob
Belt Up
Fitting The Four-Point HarnessI believe the back holes for the lower belts make Tillet seats impossible to fit.
Seat belts (lower or lap belts)
Seat belts (Upper) and Boot Cover
Fitting The Six-Point HarnessSpacer is shown, but this depends on the lower floor specification. I believe the back holes for the lower belts make Tillet seats impossible to fit.
Fitting Cloth Or Learher Seats
Or Fitting the Race SeatsIt’s a shame the manual does not cover the most popular seat – the 620R seat – with the captive nut runners. What about the heated seat wiring?
I recommend checking the runner works if you have lowered floors, because the seat will bind.
Driver seat
Passenger Seat
Fitting The Roll Over BarThis should be done earlier, just before the rear shocks are fitted.
Rollbar
Even More ExhaustingNo mention of securing the lambda sensor wiring to the floor / footwell.
Exhaust
The Nose Cone BadgeNo mention of fitting the bonnet foam.
Nosecone trimming
Bonnet fit
Decals and Nose Badge
Fitting The WipersNo mention of fitting the washer bottle in the boot. The wipers are shown the wrong way round.
So far, all illustrations are for a RHD car, this is the LHD setup for wipers.
Wiper arms and blades
And Finally, At Last, The Wing MirrorsMirrors
Wiring the Starter MotorNo mention the wiring is different for Battery Isolator cars (and we already did this after the engine install before the starter was even fitted).