I have fitted and refitted Caterham collectors many times, because both my 360R and my Sigma 150 had decat pipes, and therefore I swapped them at MOT time. I also carried the catalytic converter to track days as a way to reduce noise when needed.
I started by removing the sticker, and fitting the lambda sensor. When removing the protective cover from the lambda sensor, I was careful not to touch the sensor.
Spring clamp as supplied Not a good fit Bent for better fit Better fit on collector Modified next to stock
Next task is the modification of the spring clamp, because the clamp as supplied doesn’t sit flush on the collector or primary. To do this, I pulled the clamp apart and opened the angle slightly. This gives a few extra millimetres, which sometimes makes all the difference and that’s all that was needed.
Start compressing Tie wraps can slip Fully compressed
I compress the springs with tie wraps. I start with two, but as the pressure builds they tend to slip around the spring, so adding another two tie wraps are usually required to get the spring fully compressed. I compress the spring until there are no gaps between the coils.
Just clears Ready to remove the tie wraps Start with the most difficult Fitted spring clamp
I find sliding the collector into the primaries is a juggling act, but since I still haven’t torqued the primaries to the engine there is plenty of wiggle room. A word of caution: make sure the primaries don’t touch the lower skin as the weight of the collector is applied! I spray a little bit of WD40 on the joints to make the insertion easier.
The spring clamps should just clear the mounting lugs on the collector and primaries. Once the clamp was in the correct location, I started cutting the tie wraps to release the tension, starting with the most difficult tie wrap to access.
I’d love to say, “no tie wraps were harmed in the fitting of the collector ” Collector fitted
With the collector fitted, I torqued the primaries to the 47Nm from the manual (2015c and v2.0).
Factory lambda wiring Heat shield as fitted to my chassis Tie wrap base won’t fit
The final step in the process is to secure the wiring of the lambda sensor, which didn’t got the way was I had planned. I had taken a photo of this at the Caterham showroom, from a factory build car. Unfortunately for me, due to the way my heat shield had been fitted, I would not be able to replicate this, unless I started removing sealing tape, which could result in damage to the heat shield itself. Therefore I needed a plan B.
Self adhesive tie wrap base Cleaned ready for new adhesive Just needs to be cut out Modified tie wrap bases ready to fit
My plan B was too use self-adhesive tie wrap bases instead, but normally the adhesive is poor in comparison to the double sided adhesive used for number plates for example. So I replaced the adhesive with that of number plate strength.
Lambda wires secured
I realise this isn’t as strong or as durable as the riveted tie wrap bases, so I will have to include the inspection of them and the replacement as necessary in my service schedule. That said, they are only holding a short section of wire, which is also tie-wrapped to the chassis tube.
Tools Used
- 22mm open ended spanner
- 8mm 3/8” drive hex socket
- 8mm 1/4” drive hex socket
- 3/8” drive extensions
- 1/4” drive extensions
- 3/8” to 1/$ drive adapter
- 3/8” drive ratchet
- 3/8” drive torque wrench
- Side cutters
- Pliers
- Knife
To pass the 99 dB IVA test, you may need a Pipe Werx 60mm straight baffle, shortened to fit (recessed) in the tail pipe and drilled radially to ensure that the flow area is at least equal to a single header pipe (or you may get excessive back pressure). It can be secured with a single stainless steel rivet from below.
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99 dB can be tricky, my plan is to present the car for IVA using the optional Track Day rear exit exhaust and see where I go from there. Those Pipe Werx dB slayers look like a nice bit of kit, obviously warranty is an issue, but I need an option for those quiet track days.
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